The Bosphorus Cruise, Istanbul

The Bosphorus connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and separates the continents of Asia and Europe. It divides Istanbul into two –the European and Asian sides and a cruise on the Bosphorus is perhaps the truly historical way to see the city that is the cradle of so many civilisations. Historically, it has also been a major trade artery and the Golden Horn; which is located on the southern tip, is the harbour of Istanbul

The Bosphorus is about 31kms and the cruise (either on a fast ferry or a slow one) is an absolutely delightful way to experience the multiple layers of history that no other city in the world can stake a claim to. Istanbul, is perhaps, the only truly Eurasian city in the world.

The narrowest point on the Bosphorus has the Rumeli castle on the European side and the Anadolu castle on the Asian side.You could take an organized tour of the Bosphorus or just take the cheap cruise like I did, on the fast ferry. It was for 5 YTL and took us a couple of hours. You could take it from Eminonu (connected by tramway) and the boat stops at Uskudar, Ortakoy and then back to Eminonu. You could get off at any point. The slow ferry is even cheaper but takes almost the whole day, and since I was there in December, it was too cold for that. There are some amazing luxury tours of the Bosphorus at night as well.

While we waited for the ferry, we decided to get some seafood at one of the cafes in Eminonu lined up along the waterfront. There will be a guy in front of each restaurant inviting (persistently and perusasively) you in, and although one is used to all that in India, Istanbul is a different experience altogether. You find this in almost every place, except the upmarket restaurants–where I did not venture. The INR conversion does not afford me that kind of luxury. The restaurants in Eminonu are great , especially if it is a nice sunny day and you can sit on the tables along the waterfront. The smell of seafood can be quite overwhelming and a Bengali friend of mine,who was with me , was literally drooling. We could not figure out the menus so we had to go to the kitchen in the restaurant to figure out what we were eating.

Once on the cruise, you get to see most of Istanbul along the shoreline– its history locking arms with the modern. The Dolmabache Palace, Ciragan Palace which is now a Kempinski property, the Yildiz Palace and then the fabulous suburb of Ortakoy with its cafes and artists. In Ortakoy a church,synagogue and mosque stand side by side a testament to the religious matrix of Istanbul. The Beylerberi palace on the Asian side is in front of the hill of Camlica and you will notice the difference in architecture on the Asian side as compared with that on the European. The Rumeli castle and the Anadolu on the other side are two fortresses that line the shores of the Bosphorus. Ahead, the Fatih Mehmet bridge straddles the Bosphorus.

After the cruise, you can decide which parts of Istanbul you want to explore—there is so much to see, and the city overwhelms you with its treasures.

The Bosphorus bridge –my favourite picture below– is the longest suspension bridge in the world, outside USA. Connecting the European side of Istanbul at Ortakoy, to the Asian side at Beylerbeyi . It as built in 1973.

Baalbeck— little known treasure of Lebanon

  Baalbeck, in the North Beqaa valley, is easily a day-trip from Beirut, but if you would like to see the ruins both at sunset and sunrise, it may be a good idea to stay one night. It is a 2 hour drive from  downtown Beirut, on the road to Damascus, and if you don’t keep an eye on the signs (historical ones in Lebanon are in brown—most inappropriate colour for signage), you could well land up at the Syrian border. The road is good so it is a comfortable drive, except for the few bridges we saw with big craters in them courtesy the Israeli airforce.

You could take a minibus from Beirut, if you are travelling alone,; but if there are a few of you, best to hire a car and drive up to Baalbeck. You cannot really get lost in Lebanon, more likely to be bombed than lost. If you need directions pull up and ask people. Try French or Arabic—English being the last choice. Baalbeck is in Hizbollah territory(during the civil war it was the Hizb headquarters), so apart from the ruins you will see the political and social landscape change as you enter ths region. Lots of posters which were probably proclaiming victory or something celebratory, as I was there shortly after the conflict with Israel. There was one other group of tourists when we were there, but otherwise the place was quite deserted.

My trip to Lebanon, including the visit to Baalbeck was full of pleasant surprises; given that prior to my departure everyone thought I was out of my mind to even contemplate going there, especially after the trouble in the country around that time. But I am glad I did not let their judgement of Lebanon, stop me from visiting such an amazing country. When I mentioned visiting ruins in one of my mails to a friend, he assumed I was talking about ruins post the war !!! I then had to explain that the ruins of Baalbeck are thousands of years old, and he promptly replied—”Oh,Really ?–how amazing !!!”

Baalbeck is truly amazing. The site, which is on a archaelogical tell, that seemingly dates back to 300o BC. The Phoenicians are believed to have settled here around 1000 BC and built a temple to Baal—hence the origin of the name. Its location a major trade route of those times—- where the Litani and the Asai cross paths— continued to hold force even when the Greeks, made Baalbeck a base and renamed it Helipolis (city of the sun). They expanded the court of the Phoenicains and although there are signs of contruction dating to the Hellenistic period, it was the Romans who built the ruins today which was started around 1 BC.

When you are driving to Baalbeck you keep expecting to see the complex but after scanning the landscape for a while you turn into a little town and suddenly the imposing structure, the six corinthian colums of the Temple of Jupiter pierce the sky in their splendour and greet you to the ruins. We arrived late afternoon, and the glow of the sun made the entire complex seem breathtakingly beautiful.

There were a few touts at the entrance but I was too busy putting my jaw back in place to notice. We had parked at the wrong place, which was just as well, because we got to walk past the Temple of Venus and the meandering alleys before we reached the actual complex.

The Temple complex which was situated near a stone quarry has four important features

The Temple of Jupiter –

 

The Propylea is the main entrance and has two imposing towers on either side and a dozen granite columns(only the base remains as they were used by Arab conquerors) . Stone benches in a semi circle occupy the space in the Propylea

   

The Hexagonal forecourt has 30 granite columns that supported the massive structure and separated the Propylea from the court. It was at some time also used as a church.

 

The Great Court would have housed the statues of the Gods in the Roman Pantheon. The sacrificial altar built by the Romans is over the original one used by the Phoenicians. On one end of the courtyard is a staircase leading up to the Temple of Jupiter of which only six columns remain, with the entabulature decorated with a frieze. It is a peaceful place to be, and the basilica in the court was removed for archaeological reasons. There were two pools on either side of the altar, used mainly for cleaning before a sacrifice. The court is 144*122 metres and had 84 columns besides the altars and pools. The exedrae on the left and right housed statues of the deities.

The temple of Jupiter itself is built on a huge podium on the largest stone blocks. The Trylithion is a group of 3 blocks used on the base of the temple, each weighing 800 tonnes !!!

The Temple of Bacchus is perhaps the best preserved temple of the Roman empire. Most of the columns are intact after the ravages of conquests and earthquakes in the region. The grand entrance to this temple leads to a grand court and at the far end is the shrine of Bacchus. There are niches for the various gods and the temple itself is well decorated with vines and figures.

The Temple of Venus is a horseshoe shaped dilapidated structure outside the main complex and is fenced in.

Outside the temple complex, you could find the famous Stone of the South which weighs 1000 tons and if you try to imagine how a megalith sturcture could be transformed into the Trylithion at the base of the Temple of Jupiter it really boggles the mind. How did the Romans put those three rocks together ? It seems quite impossible, but it is there for us to see.

The colossal stone is also caaled haji-el-hubla—stone of the pregnant woman and belived to make a woman fertile.

Christianity under the Byzantine empire reduced the importance of the Baalbeck complex and later, Arabs from Syria used it as a fortress, fortified its walls with moats and walls. The Ottoman empire , in the late 19th Century allowed the first archaological work to be carried out in the ruins–first by Germans and then later the French after WW2

If you happen to visit in July/August do check out the Baalbeck International festival

Feringhee in Bodhgaya

I like what Feringhee says about India

“Why do people go to India to find themselves? India is where you go to LOSE yourself.”

 She writes about her travels on her blog . Recently, she wrote from Bodhgaya, Bihar

Excerpt

This week, your intrepid reporter witnessed relics of the Buddha and his two primary disciples, Sariputra and Mogallana, displayed in diamond-encrusted cases, all the way from Sri Lanka. The relics arrived on a grand antique wagon drawn by four Belgian draft horses. The relics themselves, seen in closeup, looked like tiny chips of bone or tooth cushioned on cotton balls, inside the gleaming cases, which were inside a glass display box, which were inside the Mahabodhi Society Mahavihara.

The next day we saw HH the Dalai Lama enshrine those relics in the Mahabodhi Society Vihara in a solemn ceremony, made raucous with rude Indian male photographers . I thought they were going to knock over the jeweled boxes and send the relics flying into the crowd of monks. It does take a true Bodhisattva to live one’s life in the near-constant presence of those snap-happy, pushing, shoving jerks without losing patience. The DL seemed quite amused at all the fuss, sometimes looking like he was suppressing laughter.

I enjoyed reading her diary , but what really cracked me up was  a non-mallu using the term pain-in-the-asana —

Galle : Sri Lanka

     

Explore Lanka

My trip to Sri Lanka  was supposed to be in December 2004, but Tsunami happened 2 days prior to my date of departure, so I ended up going six months later. While I plan to write about my travel experiences there, I decided to share a lovely piece on Galle first, written by Shripriya Mahesh . I happened to chance on it while browsing through Desi Pundit. I really enjoyed reading it and am sure you will agree

Excerpt below

“we spent a few days in Galle Fort – what an amazing place! The Galle Fort is the only living fort in the world Sri Lanka [corrected] and the Galleans are very proud of it and rightfully so. Galle’s history dates back to 1344 AD when merchants from all parts of the world like Portugal, China and Southern India docked for trade. In 1505, the Portuguese stop by Galle on their way to the Maldives and in 1588, the first fortification was built. In 1640, the Dutch captured the fort after a bloody battle and an eighteen day siege. And it was the Dutch that saw the completion of the ramparts of the fort that still stand today.

The name Galle is attributed to the Portuguese. Apparently, the sailor who was on the lookout for land saw a crowing rooster on a rock face and called out “Galla – buonovista”, a rooster – a beautiful sight. In fact, while the English pronunciation of Galle sounds like Gaul (as in the Asterix and Obelix cartoons), the Sri Lankans pronounce it Gal-la or more accurately Gal-le, the le like the French le in le maison”

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Langkawi–Getting there and hotels

 

There are a couple of legends it s associated with the origin of the name. Some associate it with Helang (eagles) Kawi(reddish brown).Kawi is also the Malay word for limestone so it could be a reference to that as well. The picture on the left is of the eagle statue at Kuah, the port of Langkawi island The other legend is that the name  derives from Langka (beauty) Wi (many) which is probably a better description of the cluster of islands. I heard a few other explanations as well, but soon my interest drifted from the origin of the name to all the legends associated with the islands. Then of course, once you get there, it is just so beautiful, that everything else fades away and one is left with just the experience of the senses. The most interesting (and consistent) legend is the one associated with the Mahsuri—the princess who cursed the island to doom and despair for seven generations, because she had been wrongly accused of adultery. This is believed to be true because langkawi has only recently come on the map of development and become a hot tourist destination. The warm embrace of Malaysian tourism replaced Mahsuri’s curse and the island has never been the same since

Langkawi is the main island, and although it has retained much of its natural beauty and kept the monsters of over-commercialization at bay, the signs of that happening are already apparent. So, the next couple of years would be the best time to experience this little paradise. The main island is the best base, and you could visit the other islands from there.   The easiest way to get to Langkawi is by air. We took a connection on Malaysian airlines. It is a short flight from Kuala Lumpur. Once you get there, you could take a cab to the hotel. If you call the hotel ahead of your arrival they will usually arrange for the airport transfer. Once you are there, you will find that taxis or rented cars are the only way to get around. As long as you have a fair idea of what it costs to get to a particular place, it is highly unlikely you will be overcharged. I stayed at the Mutiara Bay resort, which was perfect. The Berjaya resort is right next door and it one level up. My friends stayed there when they went and loved the place. When you are trying to decide on the hotel, you could perhaps keep the following things in mind 

• Decide on the beach first. The location is the first aspect. For this , you need to be familiar with a map of the island
• What are the basic commutes to most of the places you want to see, which means you need to figure that out as well
• How much luxury is enough, and how basic is basic?

Once you have this figured out, you would be able to narrow down the search 

• Kuah is the hub of langkawi and the most commercialized place. It is the center of activity, but personally, I would not recommend staying there, unless you really need to be bang in the centre of noise. There are no views to speak of
• Pantai Cenang, 18 kms from Kuah, is the most happening beach and where you find the cheapest accommodation. Do not try finding it on the internet; you will get great deals when you get there, unless it is peak season. All the nightlife, sporting activity, restaurants and entertainment zone is here. Nice place to be, but definitely not quiet
• Pantai Tengah is half a kilometer south of Cenang, and although a little quieter, the water was not very great. If you are here, you may as well be in Cenang.

Pantai Kok is about 25 kms from Kuah and has fairly secluded beaches and many good resorts. It is on the western side of the island and in close proximity to Gunung Mut Cincang (the mountain), Seven Wells and the Oriental
Village. I liked this entire belt, and you can decide the luxury level of resorts you want to stay in, after checking the beaches.

Pantai Teluk Burai is the western tip and has beautiful beaches, and near the Burau Island, full of migratory birds. It is also near the Telagu Tujuh waterfall

If you can afford it stay at the Pantai Teluk Datai—either at the super luxury Datai resort or the Andaman. I would recommend driving there just to experience the beauty of the place, and it has an amazing golf club not too far from the Temurun waterfall. Definitely worth a visit. The beach faces the island of Anak Datai

Pantai Tanjhung RHu is in the northern part of the island, and has lvely beaches. The beaches are secluded, the place is breathtaking beautiful and you should stay at the Tanjung Rhu Resort. Sheltered in the bay’s curve this place is really peaceful and recommended for those who want a relaxed vacation far from the crowds.

There are a few other beaches on the island, but these would the ones with most of the hotels/resorts.

Langkawi Map

Map of Langkawi

Indulging the Greek Gastronome : The basics

I am no foodie. My culinary skills are virtually non-existent. However, I love trying out new cuisines and enjoy a good meal. I am not fussy about food, am rarely critical or even analytical about it, and usually have more to say about the ambience and service in a restaurant than I do about the food, unless it is a complete disaster.Given all this, you would perhaps wonder why I am writing anything at all about Greek cuisine. The reason is simple. I love their cuisine and had no prior experience . Therefore, I thought it was an educational experience that I would like to share.

I have my Greek friends to thank for allowing me the opportunity to try out so many different things. After they recovered from their horror at seeing me eat pork and beef, they got used to the idea and took me the whole nine yards. I will always be grateful for that. I would never have had so much fun with Greek food if it were not for their resolute agenda— to indulge my gastronomic gene. Until it burped in Greek.

Before I went to Greece, I only knew of two kinds of olives—black and green. I was addicted to both and would have them with Indian food as well. The best olives –or rather the only olives I knew of were the Kalamata variety. I was told, there are tons of others, depending on the region, and all of them taste different. Olive oil is so healthy and I often wonder why we do not use it to cook. One of my Greek friends asked if we get olive oil in India, to which I replied in the affirmative. Therefore, she enquired if I used it. I said yes, and that I have been using olive oil for two decades and swear by it. She was thrilled to hear that and asked me if I use it for some kind of Indian salad or in traditional curry. I was unprepared for the look of complete bewilderment on her face when I told her I use it for my hair and body. I will never forget that. I think I committed some kind of sacrilege by even saying something like that to a Greek. From that day, she decided I needed an education on food and the first step was to educate me on olive oil— and explain the difference between refined and extra virgin. But I also told her that I was an exception, in terms of being an ignoramus when the topic was knowledge on food and cooking. She smiled at me sympathetically, and made it her mission to change that. At least insofar as Greek cuisine was concerned. When I was returning to India, she gave me a huge bottle of olive oil with a label on it: NOT FOR YOUR HAIR/SKIN. I took the statutory warning seriously.

  

To my knowledge (!!!), Feta cheese was the only ‘Greek’ cheese. But I know better now :)  My experience of Greek cuisine is based entirely on home cooked food made by friends in Greece and a lot of little restaurants in neighborhoods where I was possibly the only non-Greek(or at least te only Asian) in a 5 mile radius. Therefore, while it may not have been fancy, it was most definitely, authentic. Except for salad, tzatziki and souvlaki, I never ate the same thing twice. There was just too much to try.

As I completed my crash course in Greek cuisine, I began to believe that vegetables and fruits in Greece taste better than they do in other places. Perhaps, I am biased, but that was my experience. The salads are amazing and my favourite was horiatiki. They have season salads so if you visit in December chances are they will recommend another kind of salad. Don’t ask me which one. I haven’t been there in winter. Yet .

Whatever the Greeks recommend was my policy throughout my three-week vacation. Needless to say, I was never disappointed.

Bsharre, Qadisha valley : birthplace of Kahlil Gibran

On our way back from the Cedars in north Lebanon, near the Qadisha valley, is the lovely town of Bsharre, at 1400 mts. Even if I did not know the significance of this small town, I would fall in love with it. But for me, it held a deeper meaning. A walk down memory lane. A long walk. Taking me to my school days and words that etched their meaning over time. 

Lebanon : Qadisha Valley

And an astronomer said, “Master, what of Time?”

And he answered:You would measure time the measureless and the immeasurable.You would adjust your conduct and even direct the course of your spirit according to hours and seasons.

Of time you would make a stream upon whose bank you would sit and watch its flowing.Yet the timeless in you is aware of life’s timelessness,And knows that yesterday is but today’s memory and tomorrow is today’s dream.

And that that which sings and contemplates in you is still dwelling within the bounds of that first moment which scattered the stars into space.

Who among you does not feel that his power to love is boundless?

And yet who does not feel that very love, though boundless, encompassed within the center of his being, and moving not form love thought to love thought, nor from love deeds to other love deeds?

And is not time even as love is, undivided and paceless?

But if in you thought you must measure time into seasons, let each season encircle all the other seasons,And let today embrace the past with remembrance and the future with longing. 

That is a passage from ‘The Prophet’, by Kahlil Gibran. These lines paved the streets of Bsharre as the car wound through its narrow streets, heightening my anticipation. Bsharre is Gibran’s birthplace—and where his soul rests even today. The town itself was known as Beit Chari in Phoenician times and later as Buissera. The town has become famous primarily because of the Gibran association. His home is now a museum tucked away in the mountain, overlooking a beautiful valley.  It would inspire anyone to become a poet, and this town produced one of the greatest poets the world has ever known. His works have been translated into over two dozen languages—but the poet and philosopher was also an accomplished artist. 

  

I wanted to check out Gibran’s museum, but Bsharre urged me to enjoy its beauty before doing so. So, in a nice little café on the main road, right next to the lovely waterfall, we settled down to have some coffee and get a bit to eat. Placing the order, turned out to be an exercise as the menu could not be deciphered and the owner spoke no English. When she nodded her head at the mention of Taouk and Batata (potatoes in Lebanese as well!!!), we just ordered four of each.

   

There is a lovely church in Bsharre, St Saba church, has the beautiful backdrop of the Qadisha valley to frame it and located at the edge of the gorge, is an imposing feature. The three churches in this town were built by important families from Bsharre, but the St Saba is the most spectacular. 

 

After spending an hour walking around the town, we decided to head up to the museum. The museum is tucked away in the Monastery of Mar Sarkis on the rock mountain and the view from the museum is absolutely breathtaking. You can enter the museum after buying a ticket for 2 YTL and you are given a guidebook to help you understand the history. The Venetian plastered walls and rock structure of the museum are all that frame the life and work of this extraordinary human being. We walked through the rooms, all with motion sensors for light and a CCTV monitoring our every move. I was amazed to see the paintings and discover Gibran– the artist. The museum is on several levels, the lowest being a bedroom that is also where he is buried inside the rock. It was a bit eerie, so I didn’t stay in that room long

Pammukale : The cotton castle in Turkey’s Aegean region

Located in the Aegean region of Turkey, this lovely place, located twenty kilometers from Denizli, derives its name from the mineral content of chalk in hot springs has created such a natural wonder. In the Menderes valley, tectonic shifts in river basin created the hot springs , and the water rich in calcium carbonate and bisodium carbonate is the reason for the unusual white and snowy marvel.

     

The best way to get to Pammukale from Istanbul is by train. The Pammukale Expresi, which has pullman seats, couchette and a sleeping car—depending on the level of luxury you need for the 15 hour journey —starts from HaydarPasa station in the Anatolian side of Istanbul and takes you to Denizli. You can either book your seats online on the Turkish railways website ( a bit of a maze) or book it from a TCDD authorised travel agent ( it doesn’t cost any more ). You could also combine it with a trip to Izmir and Ephesus.You could get to Pammukale by bus as well, in which case you go to the Otogar in istanbul and it is an 11 hour journey.

Pammukale has one of the most spectacular landscapes I have ever seen. On approaching it, one notices a rock rising up, with terraced slopes filled with natural basins of white water that seemed more like ice than a hot spring, because of the colour. When I saw the hill , I gasped—the place was breathtakingly beautiful. It was a waterfall in snow. 

There are several ways to approach the place, but the best way is through the western gate, near Necropolis. UNESCO declared it a world heritage site in 1988 to restore the natural wonder which was being detsroyed by excessive commericlaism and tourism. It was a mess , but concerted effort of various agencies paid off and the place has regained much of its lost splendour.There is an entraance fee of  3 Euros. Ideally, this place is best appreciated off-season. Somehow, a lot of toruists wandering about the travertines takes away much of the magic.At the waters rolled down each terrace, they created magnificent white stalactitiles, and in the travertines the temperature of the water is around 33 degrees Celsius.It takes 20 mins from the twon to reach the top of the plateau—all barefeet. 

You could take a dip in Cleopatra’s pool—the Sacred Pool (for a small fee), which is a nice experience and although it does not make you look a decade younger as it is often claimed, it is still fun. The water is supposed to have medicinal properties, but I guess a 15-minute dip is not the answer. The springs have been renowned for their therapeutic features dating as far back as the Roman era. 

I was told that the calcium carbonate in the water as it flows down the hill, on reaching the surface allows carbon dioxide to be released and the carbonate forms the white sediment. These sediments create travertines where water collects and created this visual tapestry. The continually forming terraces and pools, allow for continuous movement of water and formation of stalactites. In winter, you can see a mist over the surface of the water. You can take off your shoes and walk in the water. The reason I suggest staying a night in Pammukale, is that it is worth visiting the ancient city of Hierapolis and a few other places. You can get relatively cheap accomodation in this place—20 USD for a double if you are really on a low budget.

There  are a lot of good pensions and although a lot of them have swimming pool as an attraction, you are unlikely to use the pool — not the one in the hotel anyway. In winter, make sure you stay in a better place as hot water is a problem !! But in summer there are many good places. When you take a dolmus from Denizli to Pamukkale you can just tell them which hotel you want to go to. If you call the hotel a day earlier, giving them details of when you will arrive they will generally arrange for a pick-up. A couple of recommendations for Pensions are Serin and Koray—very basic, but nice. You could also check out a reference.The bigger resorts are in Karayhit, which is located north of the plateau. Wherever you decide , you will get a great deal with breakfast included, as there are too many hotels and too few toruists. 

 More on Hierapolis in my next  

Travel to Greece on a budget

If you are anything like me, Greece would have been on your top-five-destinations list since you were in your teens. Delving into the recesses of your memory, you will find stories from their mythology that fascinated you as a child, or the history lessons on Greek civilisation and the treasure of literature, architecture, art and philosophy that enlightened and enchanted so many generations.

That would probably be your biggest motivating factor when you pick Greece as a destination. But you would also expect the glorious Mediterranean islands to cast their spell on you with their scenic beauty and sandy beaches .Be prepared to be overwhelmed by their warm hospitality, laidback lifestyles and an infectious joie de vivre. Whatever the reasons that take you there, you will never come back quite the same. Greece will change some part of you significantly, if you succumb to its overtures.

The best time to visit Greece, if you are on a budget, is off-season, of course! When it is warm — April to early June is the best time to go. The tourist season takes off in July and August so you need to be out by then!!

GETTING THERE

The first step, is to get a tourist visa and scout for a good, cheap airline (they are not mutually exclusive). I found Gulf Air (great service, new aircrafts) to be the cheapest at the time. Approximately, INR 26000/ all inclusive. I believe Qatar is also good, in terms of pricing. The stopover is also a short one, as compared to the European carriers.

FUNDAMENTALS

Now that you have the ticket, you can start the real preparation (if you haven’t done so already). Most people feel comfortable with a lonely planet guide. A better idea would be to visit a book store or research online for books on Greece—3 categories. History, travelogues and general books. They make for a perfect companion, if you love reading that is.

The next step is to get some maps and get familiar. You will need maps of Greece, Athens, any other places in mainland Greece you plan to visit, and a map of the islands ( to know where they are). You will get all this online.

THINGS YOU NEED TO CARRY

A good pair of walking shoes and beach sandals
A light jacket for windy evenings—especially on the islands
Sun block lotion and sunglasses
Beachwear and summer clothes
Unless you have a digicam, carry lots of film rolls—they are expensive!!

STAYING CONNECTED

Don’t travel with an international number. You can buy local sim cards for Greece right here in India; it’s cheap and a huge convenience when travelling within the country. Internet access is fairly cheap and easily available in all parts of Greece, so you don’t need to carry your laptop.

CURRENCY

The Euro is the commonly accepted currency. You can withdraw cash from any ATM or change your dollars at a local bank. Keep coins handy. You need them a lot, especially on local transport.

TRANSPORTATION

In Athens, the most important map you will need is a metro map. You can get one there, but better to get comfortable with the places and the connections before you land there. It is fairly simple. There are only 3 lines and you cannot possibly get lost. There are metro lines and an ISAP suburban railway line .You will find a map on www.ametro.gr There is a coastal tram and a convenient bus service in Athens.

Buses are the best way to get around mainland Greece. Fairly inexpensive, and a good network. There are 2 terminals in Athens, which service different regions of the country. There is also a good train network that connects the main cities. Two train stations—one for the west and one for the north.

The ferries to the islands would blow a considerable hole on the pocket, even if you take the slow ones. Schedules are fairly reliable so you need to check at a travel agent or head down to Piraeus and book tickets. You don’t really need to take a taxi except when you venture out at night. Public transport makes most places quite accessible. On the islands you could rent the motorbikes for a day and that’s the best way to discover the place. The Greeks drive pretty much like the Indians do, so be careful 

ACCOMODATION

Off-season you would get double rooms in a hotel/motel or pension for about 30 euros. Ideally you should explore a few options, book a night in one and then find the rest when you get there. It takes a bit if an effort, but there are lots of lovely Greek grandmas who run pensions/motels at relatively low prices that you would never find in cyber-space!! A lot depends on how light you travel. But if you find a good deal online, even better. Saves you the effort. For three weeks you should be looking at about INR 20000 at least, per head, for stay, which is possibly the best you can hope to get.

SIGHTSEEING

There is much to see and do in Greece. If you do your research right, you can manage almost all of it on a shoe-string budget, and without a tour. Apart from the historical, there is a lot else that would be interesting from the point of view of exploring their culture, traditions and day-to-day life. Greeks are incredibly warm and hospitable, and go out of their way to make you feel at home. You just have to take the first step. Language barrier is not much of a problem in most places and where it is, use sign language  Generally, the country is very tourist-friendly.

FOOD

Drink Frappe and eat souvlakis !!! The Greek substitute for Coke and a burger– You can also try the various kinds of Greek salad. It’s a starter in almost every restaurant. If you want to indulge the Greek gastronome gene, try the mezedes which allows you to savour various kinds of dishes. There are a lot of options varying from the limited vegetarian to meat and fish.Traditional sweet dishes are an absolute must-especially in Thessaloniki. Most people drink beer or wine, but you could perhaps try out their traditional drink—ouzo. It is an acquired taste, and not for everyone –but definitely worth a try. Yamas !

NIGHTLIFE

Greece is a safe country. Athens and some of the islands also have a nightlife that can leave you little time to sleep. There are clubs of all kinds, catering to various tastes and music. For traditional music you must visit a Rembetika club. There are also lots of tavernas with live music.

A three week itinerary –Athens, the Islands and Mainland Greece—for the adventurous traveller. For those who want to take it slow—combine Athens either with the islands or mainland Greece.

Arrival in Athens
Athens
By bus to Nafplio and Epidavros
Return to Athens
Day trip to Delphi.
Athens
Take a bus to Meteora
Meteora
Take another bus to Thessaloniki
Thessaloniki
Head back to Athens by train
Ferry to Mykonos
Mykonos
Mykonos
Ferry to Santorini
Santorini
Santorini
Head back to Athens
Athens
Day trip Hydra
Athens